Guide to Joe’s Valley
Welcome to Joe's Valley! There's lots to explore and, if it's your first trip, choosing climbing areas, staying hydrated, and finding a place to sleep might feel a little overwhelming. Don't worry, we're here to help.
Where to Climb
As one of the most famous climbing areas in the world, Joe's Valley is home to thousands of sandstone boulder problems, just minutes from Orangeville, Utah. Many are roadside and require little-to-no approach, but there are also hidden gems located across rivers and up steep washes. Steven Jeffery, one of the key developers and stewards of the area, released a digital guidebook in 2022, available on KAYA Pro, which includes full approach info, detailed maps, and beta videos, all available offline, plus proceeds from every subscription support the work of our Joe's Valley Coalition. If you find yourself wanting more information, the digital guide is your best resource, but we'll cover the basics here. There are three main climbing areas in Joe's Valley:
A climber rounds the corner on Chips V6. Photo by Nate Stutz.
NEW JOE'S
New Joe's sits on a hillside on the east side of UT-57 just below the old Wilberg Mine site in an area known to locals as Grime's Wash. One of the benefits of New Joe's is that you park once and most of the problems are within a 15 minute hike. Also, it's typically the warmer area of Joe's Valley so during the cold months it's the place to be. New Joe's classics include:
Chips V6 (featured)
Pimpin' Jeans V3
Resident Evil V9
Pocket Rocket V6
Black Lung V13
A climber grabs the crimps on Finger Hut V10. Photo by Josh Ruchty.
RIGHT FORK
Right Fork is also known as Cottonwood Canyon and appears soon after the turn for UT-57 when driving into the canyons from Orangeville. Just after the old Trail Mountain Mine, the road turns to dirt, eventually leading you to Dairy Canyon. Right Fork classics include:
Great White V6
The Bowling Ball V4
Finger Hut V10
Dem Bones V3
The Flu V8
A climber rides the rail on The Angler V2. Photo by Three Peak Films.
LEFT FORK
Left Fork is also known as Straight Canyon or State Highway 29 and leads to the scenic Joe's Valley Reservoir. Left Fork is home to the largest density of new bouldering areas in Joe's Valley. Left Fork classics include:
Kill by Numbers V5
Wills A Fire V6
The Angler V2 (featured)
Black Sea V8
Beyond Life V10
Download the Joe's Valley Guidebook
The new Joe’s Valley Guidebook, written by Steven Jeffery, is now available on KAYA. The guidebook includes detailed topos, descriptions, and beta for nearly 1,000 problems, all available offline. A portion of each subscription supports the Joe's Valley Coalition.
Where to Stay
There are plenty of places to call home while in Joe's Valley, from free camping to luxurious vacation rentals, depending on your budget and the time of year.
The Cottonwood Canyon Campground in Right Fork has a pit toilet and is within walking distance of many classics. Photo by Patrick Bodnar.
CAMPING
New Joe's is home to the New Joe's Campground, managed by the BLM, and includes a pit toilet. Right Fork is home to the Cottonwood Canyon Campground, which is also managed by the BLM and has a pit toilet. Both of these campgrounds cost $15 per night (per campsite) and are first-come-first-served. Camping is not allowed in Left Fork past the National Forest entrance, until you reach the Joe's Valley Reservoir Campground. If campgrounds are full, look for established areas nearby and please follow BLM dispersed camping guidelines (New Joe's) and National Forest camping guidelines (Right and Left Forks).
Vacation rentals, like the Joe's Valley House - Left Fork, often include living areas and showers.
VACATION RENTALS
Airbnb is full of vacation rentals in Orangeville and Castle Dale. During busy weekends, Ferron and Huntington have more availability and are just a few minutes further from the climbing areas. Some of our favorite rentals are the Cottonwood Cottage, Joe's Valley Coastal Cottage, Willow Tree, Relaxing Coastal Cottage, and the Mainstreet Manor. Castle Dale is also home to the San Rafael Bed and Breakfast.
The Big Mountain Lodge in Ferron also has a full restaurant, gas station, convenience store, bakery, ice cream parlor, and coffee shop.
CABINS & MOTELS
There are several cabins and motels in the area, including the Big Mountain Lodge in Ferron, the Buckhorn RV Resort Cabins in Huntingon, and the Village Inn Motel in both Castle Dale and Huntington.
Where to eat & Drink
There are multiple grocery stores to choose from near Joe’s, plus great local restaurants. Support the local economy and celebrate your sends with a hot meal!
From kombucha to crash pad rentals, Food Ranch has everything for the traveling climber.
GROCERY STORES
There are two main grocery stores in the area, Food Ranch in Orangeville and Stewart's Market in Castle Dale. Food Ranch is closest to the climbing and boasts famous donuts (try the Butterfinger donut!), a climber-friendly lounge with free WiFi, and climbing gear, including chalk for sale and crash pad rentals. If you're staying in Castle Dale, Stewart's is usually less crowded and has lower prices. Both carry beer up to 5% ABV. For stronger beer, wine, and hard liquor, you'll have to visit the Castle Dale Liquor Agency.
Fatty's Pizza & Grill is just 15 minutes from New Joe's. Photo by Jay Dash.
RESTAURANTS
After a day of climbing, check out a local restaurant for a hot meal. R Pizza Place in Castle Dale is famous for their giant pizza and has some delicious toppings (like roasted almonds, thank us later), plus calzones, wings, salads, and pasta. Fatty's Pizza & Grill in Castle Dale has a huge selection too, including pizza, burgers, salads, and delicious milkshakes. The town of Huntington is just a few minutes further and has Lamy's Mexican Grill and Ponderosa Grill.
Cup of Joes serves great coffee, free WiFi, and crash pad rentals. Photo by Jay Dash.
COFFEE AND ALCOHOL
Cup of Joes is the only true coffee shop in the area, although Food Ranch added an espresso bar in Spring 2023. On top of delicious drinks, Cup of Joes offers a lounge, free WiFi, and crash pad rentals. The local grocery stores and gas stations also offer cheap coffee.
Low-ABV beer and seltzers are sold at Food Ranch. For full-strength beer, wine, and hard liquor, visit the Castle Dale Liquor Agency. This is the only liquor store in the area and it's closed on Sunday and Monday - plan accordingly.
Showers, Water Fill-Ups & Rest Day Activities
After finding the bare necessities (boulders, food and a place to pitch a tent), it’s time to find showers, water fill stations and fun things to do on rest days.
The Emery County Aquatic Center offers showers and pool access for $5. Photo by Jay Dash.
SHOWERS
Joe's Valley is as dusty as it gets. If you're in town for a while, you're gonna want to shower (or not, we're not judging). Coin showers are available at the Orangeville Welcome Park. Showers are also available at Food Ranch for $5 and at the Emery County Aquatic Center for $5 (includes access to the pool and waterslide!).
The Castle Dale Dump Station is 15 minutes from New Joe's and has potable water. Photo by Patrick Bodnar.
WATER FILL STATIONS
There are plenty of potable water stations to fill up at - just keep an eye out for the red pumps around town! You can find fill stations at Food Ranch in Orangeville and Maverik in Castle Dale, as well as at the Castle Dale Dump Station (includes a dumpster and gray water dump), on Mill Dam Road (includes a dumpster and gray water dump), and outside the Emery County Rec Center.
The Joe’s Valley Reservoir is a great local fishing destination, featuring cutthroat trout, rainbow trout, tiger muskie and trophy lake. Photo by Dan Gajda.
REST DAY ACTIVITIES
Orangeville and Castle Dale both have beautiful parks, including two skateparks, and an outdoor volleyball court at the Emery County Rec Center. Joe's Valley Reservoir offers great views and is a popular local fishing spot. The area is surrounded by 4WD roads and great hiking.
If you're trying to escape the weather or get some work done, Food Ranch and Cup of Joes both offer a comfortable lounge and free WiFi. The Museum of the San Rafael is the place to learn about local geology and history, and the Emery County Aquatic Center has an indoor pool.